New York City is no stranger to the delights of Caribbean cooking, from Trinidadian doubles in Ozone Park, to Jamaican curry goat in Flatbush, to Puerto Rican lechón asado in the Bronx. Now imagine all that rich culinary history filtered through the crystal clear waters of a Momofuku vet’s mind and you get Kabawa, the chef Paul Carmichael’s tasting-menu restaurant in the East Village. Check out Ligaya Mishan’s review, her first three-star drop as one of The Times’s new chief restaurant critics.
|
