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In this week’s Hong Kong Edition, we wade into the Uber vs. taxi saga, speak with one of the leading voices for LGBTQ+ equality, celebrate the city’s excellent bars and monitor the latest weather system in the area. For the Review, we visit one of the very few high-end restaurants in Hong Kong where the kitchen is helmed by a young, female chef.

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Uber Messy

Few things are as iconic of Hong Kong — or bring out as much emotion — as its ubiquitous taxis. They are plentiful, relatively cheap and a key pillar of the city’s robust transport infrastructure. But complaints abound, over the state of the cars, the ability of the drivers, the lack of digital payments. Enter: ride hailing.

That quintessentially 21st century solution has been a massive headache for the government. For over a decade now, the sector’s global giant Uber has operated in Hong Kong in a gray area, and racked up legions of riders while sparking the anger of the powerful cabbie lobby. Change now is underway, though the exact direction is far from certain. The government is moving toward regulating ride-hailing services, and it’s finally ready to set up a legal framework for these popular platforms. On Wednesday, the transport agency proposed rules such as licensing fees and driver exams for five-year licenses. It's unclear when the new rules might come into effect.

Hong Kong icons at work. Photographer: Paul Yeung/Bloomberg

The attention on Uber ramped up last July when the government outlined its long-awaited plans. By February, cabbies threatened a five-day strike to demand more forceful steps. (As we noted then in this newsletter, it would’ve been a rare instance of disobedience in the city post-national security law, but they never followed through — not the first time they’ve called off a strike.) Last month, Uber itself became more vocal about its concerns, emailing users to warn of potential disruptions should a cap be placed on the number of drivers or vehicles allowed on the platform.

Let’s take stock of where the issue stands today and dive into the forces driving each side.

What’s wrong with Hong Kong taxis?

It all boils down to the service being outdated. Most of the cars have looked the same for 30 years and some of the interiors feel even older, if that’s somehow possible. (The Toyota Comforts that make up the majority of the fleet started production in 1995 and have won awards for longevity, not stylings). The fact that they often only take cash is a particular sore spot in a city where people are used to tapping their phones to pay for everything from buses to bar tabs and vending machines.

Hong Kong cabbies have also developed a reputation for erratic driving, likely not helped by the fact the workforce is aging. About two-thirds of over 200,000 taxi drivers in Hong Kong are older than 60. Accidents involving drivers in their 60s have risen 40% over the past three years, and even more for those in their 70s. These incidents have led to a petition calling for a ban on elderly drivers.

How has the taxi industry resisted change for so long?

Long-entrenched interests can be difficult to challenge anywhere in the world, and Uber’s rise has sparked backlash in many countries. In a city like Hong Kong, where car ownership is far below the norm for developed nations — it’s on par with Pakistan and Samoa at less than a sixth of the US level — taxis can exert outsize influence. Any service outage can cause significant disruption and pressure the rest of the transport infrastructure. With their large numbers and long history, taxi owners and drivers also have deep political connections. Adding to their anger, a taxi license is now worth HK$2.85 million ($367,000), down from HK$7.3 million a decade ago.

The Hong Kong government, focused on maintaining public order, has taken the risk-averse approach of minimal interference with taxis while tacitly allowing the growth of ride hailing to keep the wider public placated.

Who’s got next? Photographer: Lam Yik/Bloomberg

What has the government done to address the problem?

Authorities recently issued taxi fleet licenses to five companies, including new joint ventures, to introduce a premium tier. Last year, transport chief Angela Lee said that a total of 3,500 cabs, around 20% of the city’s total, will be run by these five operators, according to a report by the Hong Kong Free Press. The government has also encouraged the acceptance of digital payments and some have begun accepting Octopus cards, Alipay and WeChat Pay.

What is the status of ride-hailing services in Hong Kong?

Uber launched in Hong Kong in 2014 and has tens of thousands of drivers in the city — by far the dominant player, based anecdotally on the availability of cars on its platform compared to others. It also acquired the popular HKTaxi app in 2021, which it shut down and encouraged users to migrate to its main platform. But more players are trying to muscle in, including China’s Didi Global, Alibaba’s Amap and Singapore-based Tada, which is hoping to attract more drivers with its zero-commission model

Though such services have operated in a gray area, Hong Kong rules are unclear about the drivers needing a hire car permit — failure to do so being punishable by six months in jail and a HK$10,000 fine. The fact that there are only 1,500 such permits shows thousands of drivers have flagrantly ignored the rule and deemed the risk of punishment worth it.

There’s a gray area. Photographer: Lam Yik/Bloomberg

What are the options being considered?

The ride-hailing industry will be keenly watching if the government caps the number of drivers or cars allowed. The best-case scenario for it would be no quota, and the worst a very low cap. Other issues could include background checks on drivers or other rules.

In March, Uber held a media event in Hong Kong and offered its own suggestions for the regulatory framework, including ensuring platforms be licensed and have safety measures and insurance in place, and that drivers be licensed and pass background checks.

What does this mean for customers?

It’s unclear at this point. It appears that Uber and its rivals avoided a limit on driver numbers for now, but the proposals would raise the barrier for any new entrants. While welcoming the government's unveiling of the new framework, an Uber spokesperson said the company “remains concerned” about a potential cap, which could mean longer waiting times and fewer work opportunities for drivers. There’s also no sign as yet of requiring traditional taxis to upgrade services. So the bottom line, in true Hong Kong style, is that change will be incremental and slow. —Newley Purnell and Alice Truong, with assistance from Dominic Lau

Salve Leone!

Bar Leone, known for its impeccable negronis, has retained its crown as Asia’s best bar — and extended Hong Kong’s run atop the list, having dethroned three-time winner Coa in 2024. With signature drinks like its olive oil sour, Bar Leone was co-founded by Lorenzo Antinori, the Rome-born bartender who worked in London and Seoul before joining award-winning Argo in Hong Kong’s Four Seasons. Read Hong Kong Edition’s review of the bar from 2024 and find some more tips from our TV crew here—Filipe Pacheco

Bella Roma in Hong Kong’s Soho. Photographer: Bar Leone

Chart of the Week: Bond Frenzy

Companies are piling in to take advantage of low interest rates and they pushed bond sales in Hong Kong dollars to a record in the second quarter. The sudden bonanza is a byproduct of currency interventions that drove down short-term borrowing costs to nearly zero. Issuance jumped about 20% from the previous three months to HK$1.28 trillion after the HKMA flooded the market with cash in May to cool the local dollar’s rally. The extra liquidity dragged down the one-month borrowing rate to as low as 0.5% and while it’s since inched up, the rate is still down from around 4% in April. — Iris Ouyang and Apple Ka Ying Li

Five Minutes With: The Marriage Equality Champion

Hong Kong is making a major leap toward recognizing same-sex partnerships after a court ruling mandating the government to introduce a framework by October. Officials this month released a proposal for a registration system, medical decision-making and after-death arrangement rights. But there’s a catch: Couples must first register their relationship overseas.

Jerome Yau has been at the forefront of the efforts to advance LGBTQ+ inclusion since he co-founded HK Marriage Equality in 2019. His team combines research with community outreach to persuade a traditionally cautious government that the issue matters to all Hong Kongers. We spoke with Yau about how he got started, the hard yards of shifting public opinion and what comes next. —Yi Luo and Filipe Pacheco

Jerome Yau. Photographer: Kevin Au/Hong Kong Marriage Equality

How did you get involved in the LGBTQ+ rights movement in Hong Kong?

I was drawn in by a simple conversation about advancing equality through policy research and stakeholder engagement. Initially I declined an invitation to join a community organization — my focus was on analyzing ideal frameworks rather than campaigning. But after a regional marriage-equality conference in 2018, where Taiwan’s progress was so inspiring, I felt Hong Kong needed its own push. That led to co-founding HK Marriage Equality just as the Court of Final Appeal was preparing to rule on tax and civil-service benefits for same-sex couples.

What can you share about how challenging the process has been and how you’ve seen attitudes change?

Policymakers in Hong Kong often treat LGBTQ+ issues as controversial and shy away from legislation, leaning on education instead. Conservative religious voices have actively resisted any legal recognition. But on the streets and in pop culture, things are shifting. A decade ago, you rarely saw two men holding hands in public, now it’s much more common. Local films and TV shows feature gay characters without major headlines. These everyday moments may feel small, but they add up to a real change in how people think.

It’s been a long march. Photographer: AARON TAM/AFP

How does this decision stack up in terms of progress? What are your next steps?

This proposal is modest. It addresses medical decision-making rights and after-death arrangements, but ties eligibility to overseas registration, which is both costly and puzzling. Yet it’s our first legal framework, and it matters. We’ve previously secured rights like spousal visas and public housing through the courts, and the government has made it clear that it will continue to implement the relevant court decisions involving same-sex relationships. Next, we’ll push to drop the foreign-registration requirement and continue championing for full marriage equality. Each step, however incremental, builds momentum toward a fairer system.

Party time! Photographer: Anthony Kwan/Getty Images AsiaPac

What’s been the response from the general public and the LGBTQ+ community?

The reaction is mixed. Many welcome any formal recognition, however limited. But there’s widespread frustration over having to register abroad. No straight couples face that hurdle. Public surveys suggest around 60% support same-sex marriage, so there’s real appetite for progress. Some community groups see this proposal as a stepping stone, even if it doesn’t go far enough. Above all, people want their relationships treated with the same dignity and respect as everyone else’s.

The Review: Bistro Renaissance

Hong Kong isn’t lacking for polished French bistros, and as the competition sharpens, Belon is looking to gain an edge with a change in the kitchen. At just 29, Istanbul-born Mina Güçlüer has stepped into the role of head chef, making her one of the youngest to lead a top restaurant in the city, and among a small number of women running Michelin-starred restaurants in Asia.

Her imprint on the menu is showing up in the form of cooking rooted in French technique that incorporates local ingredients and elements from her Turkish background. That’s most apparent in her East-West twist on the roast duck: sourced from Guangzhou, dry-aged for 14 days, and served with apricot and bulgur wheat. The dish anchors Black Sheep’s monthly “Plated” deal, an early-week prix fixe menu at HK$428 ($55) per person.

Duck with apricot and bulgur wheat. Photographer: Sara Hemrajani/Bloomberg

My guest and I booked spots for a Monday night. Straight away, we were pleasantly surprised by the New York jazz bar aesthetic: Think sophistication in shades of blue and gray. In fact, nothing about Belon visually resembles a traditional Parisian bistro. However, the muted color palette didn’t detract from the carefully crafted and delicious food. Another highlight was the staff, who were incredibly attentive and generous.

After a complimentary glass of champagne, we began with the ceviche-style fluke (light and zesty on the tongue) and were charmed by our waitress into ordering chef Mina’s signature brioche beef tartare (HK$398) to share. That was followed by the aforementioned duck and then we ended with a sinful mille-feuille (HK$198). Our bill, including service, totaled HK$1,658.

The vibe: Contemporary chic in the heart of Soho. The overall ambience is classy yet intimate and laid back, with tables suited for up to four people. Belon welcomes smart casual attire.

Brioche beef tartare with caviar. Photographer: Sara Hemrajani/Bloomberg

Who’s next to you: The combination of various promotions brought out couples, friends, colleagues as well as families.

Can you conduct a meeting here? Yes, absolutely. There’s enough space between the tables to allow for formal conversations and the nu jazz soundtrack is a subtle touch in the background.

What we’d order again: The brioche beef tartare with caviar is a crowd favorite for good reason. The buttery, melt-in-your-mouth dish is superb despite its unassuming appearance. I also have no regrets about indulging in the latest dessert offering – a colorful strawberry and Chantilly cream mille-feuille treat.

Strawberry mille-feuille. Photographer: Sara Hemrajani/Bloomberg

Need to know: Belon is on the first floor of 1-5 Elgin Street. Its entrance is discreet, and the door to the stairway is tucked away between Fukuro and Ho Lee Fook. The restaurant serves dinner every day from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Guests who wish to immerse themselves in the action of the kitchen can reserve the chef’s counter (seats up to four people) for what sounds like a unique front-row experience. —Sara Hemrajani

See our reviews of other Hong Kong French bistros: Jean-Pierre, Babette, La Terrace by Louise and Lala.

Let us know if you have any restaurants you’d like us to review. Drop us a line at hkedition@bloomberg.net.

Weather Update: Typhoon Watch

Following last week’s downpours, a tropical depression is brewing off the Philippines, feeding off warm waters and weak crosswinds. For now, it’s hard to say what exactly the storm will do after it passes Luzon and enters the South China Sea. Weather models see the system gradually strengthening through the weekend, but its precise path, intensity and potential effect on Hong Kong remain uncertain. As the storm approaches, local weather will become unstable from the weekend and into early next week, according to the Hong Kong Observatory. —Mary Hui 

Heading toward Hong Kong. Source: PAGASA

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