Good morning! Today we have for you:
There are tomatoes, then there are schmaltzy tomatoesWe’ve reached peak tomato time, the glorious moment when fat beefsteaks and gnarled heirlooms are just too good and too abundant not to put into absolutely everything, even dessert. (Thumbprint cookies with tomato jam. Don’t knock it ’til you try it). I’m happy to eat tomatoes all day long and every which way: sliced on a bagel for breakfast; cubed into salad for lunch; and for dinner, tossed with sizzling poultry drippings for my skillet chicken thighs with schmaltzy tomatoes. The key here is to sear the chicken pieces slowly and thoroughly so the skin releases all of its fat, which turns bronzed and savory when mixed with the chile flakes, fennel seeds and lemon zest in the pan. Sliced red onion and fresh herbs add color, crunch and freshness, perfectly capturing the buoyant vibes of these last weeks of August. Let’s enjoy them while they last. Featured Recipe Skillet Chicken Thighs With Schmaltzy TomatoesMore food for thoughtZucchini fritters: August is also all about zucchini, which, if you have a garden, can be hard to keep up with. Melissa Knific to the rescue with her crunchy, vegetable-filled fritters, which are easy to cook and hard to stop eating. You can serve them with lemon wedges for squeezing or with a tangy sauce — maybe ranch dressing or tzatziki — for dipping. They’re so good they might even make you grateful for all those zucchinis your neighbor left on your porch. One-pot paneer pilaf: Seared paneer has the heft to hold its own in this hearty meatless dinner. Sohla El-Waylly uses frozen cauliflower and peas to keep prep time minimal, then frizzles sliced onions for depth of flavor and texture. Serve with dollops of plain yogurt to add a creamy bite. Lemongrass tofu and broccoli: Lemongrass does all the heavy lifting in Hetty Lui McKinnon’s punchy stir-fry, with its pillows of tofu primed to absorb the citrusy, turmeric-stained sauce. She adds broccoli florets to the pan at the end, letting them quickly steam until they turn bright green, sweet and crunchy. Shrimp salad: Millie Peartree’s classic Southern recipe keeps the focus on the plump, sweet shrimp, which are gently seasoned with mayonnaise and tossed with shallots, celery and a smattering of fresh dill. Pile on top of salad greens or serve with crackers for a light warm-weather meal that feels a little special. Fruit crumble: Nutty, oaty and full of burbling, syrupy juice, Genevieve Ko’s crumble can be made with any of the berries or stone fruit at their ripest right now. Save the recipe for fall to bake with apples or pears. The topping also happens to be gluten-free, ideal for sharing far and wide. Add scoops of ice cream or whipped cream and live your best late-summer life. That’s all for now, except to remind you that if you’re stuck in a technical snafu, email the smart people at cookingcare@nytimes.com for help. And I’m at hellomelissa@nytimes.com if you want to say hi. I’ll see you on Monday.
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