Peter Mandelson’s pet diplomacy, the return of founder-led brands, three magazines for your autumn stack and a Zürich watering hole.
Wednesday 17/9/25
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Good morning from Midori House. For more news and views, tune in to Monocle Radio. Here’s what’s coming up in today’s Monocle Minute:

THE OPINION: Peter Mandelson’s pet diplomacy
FASHION: The return of founder-led brands
DAILY TREAT: Three magazines for your autumn stack
CONCIERGE: A choice Zürich watering hole


The Opinion: diplomacy

Politics is a ruff world – just ask Mandelson’s ‘ambassa-dog’

By Charlotte McDonald-Gibson
<em>By Charlotte McDonald-Gibson</em>

As Donald Trump begins his second state visit to the UK, the absence of London’s former ambassador to Washington, Peter Mandelson, continues to make headlines. It remains to be seen whether he will be widely missed on Capitol Hill. He has always been a controversial figure and while Trump took a shine to British politics’ “Prince of Darkness”, there were many others with misgivings about the scandal-prone operator’s suitability in these highly charged times.

But one member of his team had been an unmitigated success in his posting, throwing himself into his new role with an enthusiasm that put seasoned diplomats to shame: Jock, Mandelson’s 10-year-old, brown-and-white border collie. Sniffing heels at official events, the “ambassa-dog” was expert at working the crowd, finding the right people to target with puppy-dog eyes and a tennis ball dropped for a toss. Racing around the grounds of the Edwin Lutyens-designed ambassador’s residence, Jock would charm distinguished guests, who were all too ready to throw him a bone.

Somewhere over the rainbow: Jock ends his career as a diplomatic dog

As Mandelson cultivated his relationship with key figures in Trump’s orbit, Jock put in the time to get to know Atlas, the two-year-old German shepherd owned by the US vice-president, JD Vance. The pair often had free rein to patrol the embassy grounds as their owners chewed over matters of foreign policy. Jock had the vital diplomatic skill of being able to connect with dogs from across the spectrum of breed and size, whether that be a lolloping German shepherd or a diplomatic sausage dog. 

Mandelson’s political biography is dotted with canine anecdotes. Gerry Adams convinced him to buy his first dog shortly after he was appointed Northern Ireland secretary in 1999. During his time as Sinn Féin’s leader, Adams even offered to buy him one, Mandelson recounted in his memoir – but that was vetoed by his security team “because they feared a listening device would be embedded into one of the dog’s paws”. Mandelson ended up acquiring Bobby, a golden retriever, who became a minor celebrity in Northern Ireland. Jonathan Powell, Tony Blair’s then-chief of staff and now Keir Starmer’s chief foreign-policy adviser, recalled Mandelson bringing Bobby and his other dog Jack on the private jet between London and Belfast, where the truculent hounds kept trying to eat his sandwiches. 

Hounded out of office: Mandelson with his previous pooch, Bobby

The usual canine appetites notwithstanding, at Monocle we have long recognised the unique talents of a canine to smooth the edges of a difficult meeting and improve the atmosphere at any gathering. Diplo-dogs can give opposing sides a point of commonality and help to break the ice, as well as offering stress relief in high-pressure environments.

There can, of course, be bad examples. Joe Biden’s German shepherds, Major and Commander, were exiled from the White House after biting staff. For Mandelson, however, dogs have helped to soften the image of a man whom the media has depicted as a cunning and ruthless spin doctor. But even Jock could not save his master from the Jeffrey Epstein scandal – and Mandelson was rightly sacked last week for his links to the convicted sex offender.

But Jock was loyal to the end. The Financial Times reported that it was Jock who first alerted his owner to his impending firing, barking at 05.40 as staff approached his bedroom door with the bad news. Politics is a dog-eat-dog world.
 
Charlotte McDonald-Gibson is a Monocle contributor based in Washington. Further reading? When it comes to airport security, canines are still indispensable. Here, Monocle visits the TSA dog training centre.


 

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The Briefings

FASHION: global

As the luxury market slows down, designers are returning to founder-led brands

Fashion designers are evidently ready to take risks again and start new brands (writes Natalie Theodosi). In the past week, there have been three announcements by creatives venturing into new businesses. Olivier Theyskens – whose collections for Nina Ricci, Rochas and his now-defunct eponymous label are still a point of reference for many designers – will make his debut for fashion house Boloria in 2026, backed by Belgian group We Are One World. New York-based Peter Do has also introduced a new label, PD-168: a collection of clean-lined, monochromatic pieces designed to adapt to the working lives of customers, whether they are chefs, dancers or consultants. Brian Reyes, a Ralph Lauren and Oscar de la Renta veteran who shut his eponymous label 14 years ago, is also making a comeback with a smaller-scale, made-to-order model.

Well aware of the financial risks involved and the fierce competition from luxury groups, fewer designers have seemed willing to start their own brands over the past five years. Now that the luxury market is slowing down and in need of fresh ideas, some are clearly ready to take the leap. They could have as much impact on the fashion industry as the creative directors debuting new collections for the world’s biggest heritage brands this September. 


• • • • • DAILY TREAT • • • • •

Magazines to buy at Paris’s Bogopresse kiosk

Beach-reading season might be winding down in the northern hemisphere but there are plenty of reasons to keep your page-turning habit going as we head into autumn. We visit our friends at Bogopresse kiosk, opposite La Grande Épicerie de Paris, for recommendations that will keep you both informed and entertained.

‘Violet Papers’, issue three
This fashion and beauty magazine is a labour of love for Paris-based model Lara Violetta and her small team. The current issue is titled “Noise” and features archivist Sanam Sindhi’s exploration of South Asia’s influence on fashion.

‘Passager’, issue two
This quirky, multilingual travel title will take you everywhere from Antwerp to Oaxaca and from ski slopes to the desert. Articles are published in the writers’ native languages and come with a translation booklet.

‘The Current’, volume six
Lighting specialist The Urban Electric Co produces this magazine-cum-art book annually. It’s a sharp title that will inspire design aficionados with lush photography of cosy homes and opulent palazzos around the world.

Bogopresse, 36 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, France


 

Beyond the headlines

THE MONOCLE CONCIERGE: Zürich

Our editors’ tips on the hottest spots in Switzerland’s largest city

If you couldn’t make it to Barcelona for The Monocle Quality of Life Conference, worry not. There are plenty of other Monocle events to put on your calendar. Next up is our Autumn Market at Dufourstrasse 90 in Zürich, where you can browse Monocle and Trunk’s seasonal style offerings. Whether you’re already in town, taking the train or flying in, you might want to add some other stops to your itinerary. Here’s a place to pick up a post-market tipple from our Zürich City Guide.

Schnupf, Langstrasse
This restaurant-cum-bar serves quality dishes and drinks in its shaded garden on sunny days and in its low-lit dining room on cooler nights. Co-managed by Natalie Wachter and Rodrigo Zimmermann, Schnupf strikes the perfect balance between sophistication and informality, with a menu that’s compact and seasonal. Handcrafted ceramics and textiles from Zürich-based enSoie add to the ambience, infusing the space with regional artistry and charm.



Monocle Radio: the urbanist

Tall Stories: Dulles International Airport’s mobile lounges

Gregory Scruggs unpacks a heritage feature of Dulles International Airport in Washington that gives the terminal a unique charm.


Listen to the episode on monocle.com
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