It’s a fast-moving runway season with new designers at Chanel and Dior, among other houses, and in Milan last week, Miuccia Prada and her co–creative director, Raf Simons, seized the moment to be more contrarian than usual. Their show opened with two ordinary work uniforms, like the kind UPS drivers wear, before the clothing shapes began to break up and recompose themselves into new forms. A top that suggested a bra was a mere flutter of fabric and certainly useless as a bra. More curious still was a soft knee-length skirt suspended from the shoulders on two long, thin straps. Although Prada and Simons added underlayers, like bras and uniform shirts, the cut of the skirt nonetheless left a large void at the center of the body. The designers said an aim was to move away from the sculptural aspect of high fashion and make styles that can shift and adapt, but to some critics, they had removed the clothes, too. The show, in the best Prada tradition, divided opinion.
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