Insider tips, top tables and runways highlights from Paris Fashion Week.
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Wednesday 11/3/26
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London
Paris
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Paris Fashion Week
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Despite rising geopolitical tensions, Paris Fashion Week delivered a sensational autumn/winter 2026 edition. From Dior’s botanical runway to another Chanel spectacle, the industry once again reaffirmed the French city’s status as the global fashion capital.
THE OPINION: Paris Fashion Week offers hope for the industry BEST IN SHOW: Hermès highlights and our top-10 round-up FROM THE SHOWROOMS: Picks from industry insiders Q&A: Adam Lippes on putting people first and building an independent brand EAT HERE: Three top tables to escape the crowds overheard at... Paris Fashion Week
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THE OPINION: PARIS
Paris Fashion Week highlights industry strength amid global turmoil
By Grace Charlton
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Fashion weeks have suffered from remarkably poor timing in recent years. From news of the coronavirus pandemic in 2020 to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine two years later, the latest edition of the womenswear fashion month, which concluded in Paris yesterday, was overshadowed by reports of the US-Israel war on Iran, ships being sunk off the coast of Sri Lanka and the price of oil skyrocketing as a result. To shift from these headlines to the latest collections being unveiled on the runway requires acknowledging that the fashion industry represents the livelihood of millions of people worldwide – from garment workers and publicists clutching iPads outside of shows to casting agents, caterers, choreographers, set designers and more. While the spectacle of a fashion week feels frivolous at times, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode estimates that Paris Fashion Week generates about €1.2bn in economic revenue for the host city.
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Fashion, when executed to the levels seen in recent weeks, holds up a mirror to the times we live in or, at the very least, provides some needed escapism. In Paris, luxury houses continued to raise the bar following a year of creative-director switch-ups and executive reshuffles. As the dust settles, we can now gauge which pairing of designer and maison is emerging as the winning formula. Take, for example, Dior (pictured, above). The label’s Northern Irish creative director, Jonathan Anderson, honed in on the elements of the house codes that resonate with his own sensibility, most notably a love for botany and playing with complex silhouettes. A closer look reveals the perfectly executed details – from buttons running down the seams of trousers to silvery tulle peeping out of a Bar jacket.
Dior isn’t the only label in the LVMH stable to come careening out the gates this season. The French luxury conglomerate is sustaining momentum across the board with a portfolio of brands that are carving out different niches. Celine, Givenchy and Loewe all presented womenswear collections, each with distinct feels. From neoprene scuba-diving-derived shoes at Loewe by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez to Sarah Burton’s sharp suiting and flattering eveningwear at Givenchy, the luxury-goods group is casting a wide net, offering something for everyone.
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But is Chanel’s Matthieu Blazy the ultimate winner? The debut collection by the Franco-Belgian creative director hit the racks of the French house’s boutiques over the weekend and reports of a shopping frenzy on Rue Cambon quickly became the talk of the town. On Monday evening, showgoers paraded into the Grand Palais sporting the latest square-toe pumps and iterations of Chanel flap bags (pictured, above). On the runway, models came out in iridescent tweed sets, belted drop-waist skirts and monochromatic coats. As Blazy took his bow, the room erupted into applause. And as excitement for Chanel’s new era translates into real in-shop sales, it offers wider hope for the industry at large, even in the most uncertain of times.
Grace Charlton is Monocle’s associate editor for design and fashion. For more opinion, analysis and insight, subscribe to Monocle today.
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best in show: Hermès highlights
In plain sight
Hermès The opportunity to either conceal or reveal with a zipper was the unifying theme for Hermès artistic director Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski’s latest collection. Zipped dresses, jumpsuits and jackets took on streamlined silhouettes that allowed for a sense of agility and dynamism. Unzipped, longline coats with sheepskin collars swooped dramatically as models made their way down the runway.
Elsewhere, jodhpurs, over-the-knee boots and quilted-leather pieces were clear nods to the maison’s equestrian heritage. The collection’s moody palette was inspired by nightfall: oxblood reds, forest greens and deep, almost-grey blues looked particularly seductive when applied to leather. New accessories included a series of ostrich-leather chapka hats and bags with small timepieces disguised in their handles. hermes.com
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From the showrooms: Industry picks
History repeats
Beyond the high-octane runway shows by luxury houses, editors and buyers spend Paris Fashion Week taking appointments at showrooms where brands present their autumn/winter collections. Here are three industry favourites worth keeping in mind.
1. Nami French brand Nami, launched in 2024, pays homage to the Scottish Highlands, where founder Philippine Namy’s grandfather owned a farmhouse. “He had a cupboard filled with wool jumpers and thick trousers that ended up being worn and passed down through three generations,” says the designer, who works exclusively with high-quality Scottish and Italian textiles. This season, alongside its now-signature second-skin knits, the brand introduced elegant knit dresses with integrated scarves that wrap around the neck. Namy’s inspiration? Traditional shepherds’ coats with high collars designed to shield wearers from sharp winds. namiofficiel.com
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2. Tove London-based label Tove brought a touch of British eccentricity to its latest collection. The line-up features cashmere knits that reveal themselves to be backless; an electric-blue, leather pencil skirt; and a show-stopping evening dress adorned with tomato-red, hand-cut ribbons. “As minimal as the brand is, it’s not about strict perfection,” says creative director Holly Wright. “We love British quirks, so we really wanted to lean into that.” The brand’s first line of bags takes a more classic route, with boxy shapes, sleek hardware and adjustable shoulder straps for effortless everyday wear. tove-studio.com
3. TWP Founded by Trish Westcoat Pound in 2021, TWP draws on US heritage, traditional tailoring and the brand’s home of New York for inspiration. This season, Westcoat Pound brought some all-American cool to Paris with a collection of crisp white shirts, heavyweight denim and buckle belts. Westcoat Pound’s Oklahoma roots shine through in these core workwear pieces, while New York’s influence is clear on the collection’s sleek evening dresses and woven leather coats. TWP is currently expanding its retail presence, with new shops opening in Palm Beach, Dallas and Charleston and plans to establish an outpost in London over the coming months. twpclothing.com
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Q&A: Adam Lippes
Lead by example
American designer Adam Lippes began his career as an investment banker before transitioning into the fashion industry. He rose to prominence at Oscar de la Renta and launched his namesake label in 2004. This Paris Fashion Week, Lippes presented his autumn/winter 2026 collection, which featured silk-lined coats, cashmere from Italian mills and immacutely tailored suiting. We hear from Lippes about building his brand and putting clients first.
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How did you build your brand as an independent designer? By focusing on clothing and the clients, not marketing. There is no compromise on quality, construction or fit. I work with customers all around the US by going to shops and meeting them. After a decade, we thought that it was time to market the brand and expand internationally. We have four shops in the US and now we’re opening in Japan.
What are the advantages of being an independent brand? I don’t have anyone to answer to, except for my team. The difficulties are on the marketing front, so I need the quality of my clothes to speak for itself. It makes us more focused on the construction. It’s harder being independent, there is no question, but it is more rewarding. It involves being an entrepreneur – I can’t just be a designer. I have to split up my day and multi-task. Thankfully, I have a background in investment banking, so I can read spreadsheets.
How do you anticipate what your clients need? I’m very client-facing. I talk to them and see what they wear. If I don’t know someone who might wear a piece, then I won’t make it. I don’t do big gowns, I try to create day-to-evening wear. I keep shapes simple because I want a woman to wear my clothes and look good. We use organic vegetable washes and Japanese denim. Last December, we launched bags that are made in France. We have a knit inspired by snake scales that took us about a year to figure out because it’s so complex. Some of our customers no longer want to wear logos or own pieces that can be found everywhere. adamlippes.com
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Where to eat and drink: paris
Top tables
In Paris and looking to escape the fashion crowd? From decadent pizza slices to lively cocktails, these three off-piste spots will take you beyond the well-trodden trail – though we can’t promise that no one will overhear your thoughts on this season’s collections.
Le Cornichon PMU betting bars, the French neighbourhood institutions known for their low prices and no-frills atmosphere, are winning over an entirely new crowd. Leading this revival is Le Cornichon, a bar-restaurant located in the heart of the 11th arrondissement. This is the spot to while away an afternoon with a beer or a chilled glass of wine before settling en terrasse with a plate of Le Cornichon’s beef-fat fries. You can even buy a couple of scratch cards. Bonne chance! 2 Rue des Goncourt
Pluto Good luck finding a table in Le Marais during fashion month. Here’s an insider tip: head to Lafayette Anticipations, the contemporary art foundation tucked along one of the neighborhood’s busy streets – there, you’ll find Pluto. The restaurant is run by chef Thomas Coupeau, a culinary maverick who delights in serving inventive dishes that pack a punch. Think squid ink pasta, tempura squash, dulce de leche flan and gochujang cookies. 44 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie
Pan Pan The recently opened pizza joint Pan Pan in the 2nd arrondissement specialises in thick Detroit-style slices with perfectly toasted edges served up in a sunset-hued setting designed by French architecture firm Selah. The pizza dough blends flour, semolina, milk and honey – a combination that lends it a soft, brioche-like flavor. Beyond the familiar favourites of margherita or pepperoni, we recommend the jambon beurre, inspired by the classic Parisian sandwich, with black pepper butter, Prince de Paris ham, comté and pickles. 71 Rue d’Aboukir
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Overheard AT... paris FASHION WEEK
Fashion conspiracies, nut bags and Billy Idol
“During fashion week I turn into a squirrel: I carry a bag of nuts and eat them throughout the day. Nutritious and they don’t smell bad.” A Swiss stylist at the Issey Miyake show
“Do you ever find it sinister? This constant need for new trends to sustain the fashion industry?” – “No, it’s just business at the end of the day.” A French fashion editor making conversation with a local on the metro after the Isabel Marant show
“I did not wake up this morning expecting to see Billy Idol today.” An American journalist leaving the Ann Demeulemeester show, where the English rock star walked the runway
“What are you planning to do today?” – “I’m just going to pop into Chanel.” A British fashion designer speaking to a Paris-based journalist
“I have a theory that creative directors all convene and decide what the next year’s trends will be. Why do you think we’ve seen so many stirrups and oversized cuffs lately?” An American buyer conspiring at the Yohji Yamamoto show
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Image credits: Courtesy of Dior, Courtesy of Chanel, Virgile Guinard, Courtesy of Nami, Yvonne Tnt/BFA via Shutterstock, Juan Jerez, Matteo Verzini, Studio Pong
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