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Another sheet-pan stunner from YewandeI’ve just returned from a trip to Los Angeles, where I ran totally wild at the Sunday morning farmers’ market in Hollywood. I make it a point to check out farmers’ markets wherever I travel, because one of the best ways to get to know a place is through its local foodstuffs. California operates on a whole other level. Everything seems to thrive there. All that citrus! Persimmons, passion fruit and dates! Really good strawberries almost all year round! If I lived in California I’d plant a Meyer lemon tree and make lemon curd by the tubful. But I don’t live there, so I schlepped back a weighty suitcase of artichokes, avocados and Kishu mandarins. Now: What shall I do with them? Artichokes are a no-brainer. I’m steaming them to eat in bowls of melted salted butter seasoned with a little hot sauce. And the minute those avocados ripen, they’re going straight into Yewande Komolafe’s perfectly timed new recipe for harissa shrimp with greens and feta. Yewande brilliantly makes use of two pillars of weeknight cooking: the sheet pan and the condiment shelf. One of my favorite condiments, harissa, adds extravagant flavor to the shrimp and helps it caramelize, while the greens, either chard or kale, crisp at the edges. A topping of salty feta and creamy avocados adds texture and tang. It’s a dish that will take you places. As for dessert, the mandarins are really all I need. Though a cookie on the side never hurts. Featured Recipe Harissa Shrimp With Greens and FetaMore food for thoughtPasta aglio e olio with tuna: I’m a sucker for a good midnight pasta, and Sheela Prakash offers a terrific version with canned tuna. She slices the garlic before sautéing it to bring out its sweetness and a bit of texture. A handful of arugula added right at the end adds a fresh, green bite. Basil tofu: Hetty Lui McKinnon’s new dish was inspired by pad krapow, the Thai stir-fry usually made from chicken or pork. Hetty uses meaty extra-firm tofu instead, cooking it with plenty of basil, Thai chiles, green beans and sweet bell peppers. Don’t stint on the lime juice at the end, because it lifts all the spicy flavors with its essential brightness. Baked chicken thighs: A homey classic courtesy of Lidey Heuck, this mustardy, crisp-skinned chicken is perfect for any time you need a comforting, child-pleasing meal that the whole family can get behind. I love it with Genevieve Ko’s fluffy mashed potatoes, preferably topped by copious spoonfuls of the savory pan juices. Pesto chickpea soup: I came home to chilly Brooklyn from sunny Los Angeles craving a warming bowl of soup. Carolina Gelen’s brothy, hearty, herby recipe got me there in under half an hour. The easiest lemon curd: Speaking of lemon curd, use Meyer or regular lemons to make my streamlined recipe, which you can whip up in your microwave in just minutes. Spoon it over berries or dollop some in a bowl of Greek yogurt for a sweet and tangy treat. That’s all for now. If you need any technical assistance, the folks at cookingcare@nytimes.com are there just to help you out. And I’m at hellomelissa@nytimes.com if you want to say hi. For a limited time, you can enjoy free access to the recipes in this newsletter in our app. Download it on your iOS or Android device and create a free account to get started.
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