It’s Wednesday afternoon at Monocle’s HQ in Zürich and our café is in full swing with the usual mix of matcha mums, family office custodians, neighbours and subscribers. It’s sunny and just a little fresh, so a few regulars have taken up seats outside to enjoy an early negroni or the last espresso hit of the day. No one notices the VW Estate that pulls up out front or the pleasant-looking gentleman who steps out. He wanders back and forth surveying the street. He makes a call. He paces around a bit more, looks up and down the road. A car slows, he nods and walks back to his vehicle and opens the back. He then returns with a stack of tiny traffic cones, like you might have found in a Fisher-Price boxset but only slightly larger. He places them perfectly along the road, a little outside the parking lines. He makes another call and then comes over to introduce himself. He’s an officer with Zürich’s Stadtpolizei (city police) and part of the security and traffic control team for movements around The World Economic Forum. “They’re 10 minutes out,” he says, consulting his phone. 

Nine minutes later, there are some blue flashing lights down the street; and 45 seconds after that, a very slow-moving motorcade comes into view. There’s no screeching up to the curb in Seefeld. Goodness no. This being a city run by car-haters, 30km/h is strictly obeyed – no matter how easy it might make it for a rooftop assassin. But as we’re soon to find, the slow speeds might be for the locals to blow kisses and throw flowers. After his speech in Davos 24 hours earlier, Canada’s prime minister has the Swiss suddenly swooning and the ‘Carneyval’ is about to kick off as the PM emerges from one of the lead vehicles.

A few of us are out front to greet him while heads turn inside the café and Trunk shop. Could it be? Is it him? There are people peering down from the floors above and soon their fellow tenants shuffle down the stairs to confirm the sighting and hope of a picture. 

I’ve known Mark Carney since his days at the Bank of England and have come to count him as a wise counsellor, a customer (where do you think that olive bag is from?), a calming force and, most importantly, a friend. He makes his way to Trunk with Mats alongside and he takes a read of the rails and shelves. Carney has already done much to up the image of brand Canada on the world stage and thankfully it has involved navy suits, dark ties and elegant footwear. Gone are the comedy socks and poorly cut suits of the Justin Trudeau years and, as is often the case with strong, well-turned out leaders, his personal style is starting to rub off on other members of his cabinet – albeit a bit slower than he’d probably like.

As we walk into our café there are Swissies who want photos, he gets nods and thank yous from others and stops to chat to a small contingent of Canadians who might have been tipped off about his arrival. We’ve cleared the lounge for a little chat about the past few days and land on the collapse of public discourse and decency. “Does the behaviour, the language, of US leadership on both sides of the aisle become the acceptable way to conduct yourself in the world? Were Gavin Newsom’s comments about European leadership needing kneepads necessary? What happened to taking the more elegant high ground?” I ask. At this point, it’s important to note that Prime Minister Carney is visiting Monocle while Trump took to the stage to insult his hosts. We say cheers and I ask for another round to be poured. 

If the Swiss, plus much of Europe and the world in general, weren’t familiar with Carney’s themes before Tuesday, there’s a strong constituency who are not only impressed but hoping that Canada might finally take a bigger role in a G7 and global context. Back in June, Carney tried out his “if we’re not at the table, then we’re on the menu” concept on me and it stuck in an instant. At the podium in Davos, those words rang even truer. Carney might also add that if you get a seat at the table then you speak politely, charm your neighbours, ask questions of those around you, refill glasses and be the consummate host. As he made his way out to the waiting motorcade, he demonstrated just that tact with those gathered to say hello, goodbye and thank you. This is what modern leadership looks like – warm, assured, human and confident.

Enjoying life in ‘The Faster Lane’? Click here to browse all of Tyler’s past columns.

Milanese restaurant Altatto might be a while off the beaten track but it’s well worth the trek (writes Ed Stocker). Already a success, this inventive opening recently moved from the northern end of the city to the south in search of more space. The result is a homely, modern restaurant with a large open kitchen conceived by artist and designer Nicola Lorini (look out for his wooden chairs).

Chefs and founders Sara Nicolosi and Cinzia De Lauri serve up plenty of local ingredients, with the vegetarian menu changing roughly every two months. While there are some à la carte options, the main draw is a nine-course tasting menu, with every dish showcasing one vegetable. On a recent visit, Monocle enjoyed the sweet-glazed, grilled mushrooms with a medley of fresh herbs. It’s proof that plant-based menus can still impress in a city that leans heavily on more traditional dishes such as ossobuco and chicken Milanese.
altatto.com

Monocle’s Milan City Guide offers our selection of the best trattorias, fashion houses and galleries to visit in Italy’s second city.

Tbilisi-based restaurateur Giorgi Mindiashvili has just opened DakaDaka in London’s Mayfair – an homage to his culinary roots. Here, Mindiashvili tells us about his Sunday spa ritual, the Georgian chilli paste in his pantry and his choice of amber wine.

Where will we find you this weekend?
Soaking at Tbilisi’s Abanotubani sulphur baths – my regular spa ritual in a 13th-century bathhouse that draws on natural springs.

Ideal start to a Sunday? Gentle or a jolt?
A stroll through the botanical gardens behind my house in Sololaki, Old Tbilisi, with my Frenchie, Bona.

What’s for breakfast?
Adjaruli khachapuri, a boat-shaped cheese bread finished with egg yolk and baked in a wood-fired oven.

A Sunday soundtrack?
“Polo Palace” by Kayakata. Maxime Machaidze is a talented young artist and a close friend from Tbilisi.

Sunday culture must?
Hunting for hidden treasures in the city’s flea markets.

Something to drink?
Kisi from Ethno winery – a natural amber wine from the Kakheti region, which is fermented in clay vessels.

A favourite product for the pantry?
Ajika, a spicy red chilli paste from Samegrelo in western Georgia.

Which brands does your wardrobe currently consist of?
Le Mocassin Zippé by Ketevane Maissaia, Our Legacy, Universal Works and Barbour.

Next on the travel itinerary?
Chiang Mai, northern Thailand.

Korokke is a Japanese dish derived from French croquettes and is typically filled with mashed potato and meat, and coated in panko before being deep fried. Here, Monocle’s Japanese chef adds crab meat and plenty of butter to create silky korokke – the ultimate comfort food.

Serves 2 (makes 6 small croquettes) 

Ingredients 
For the white sauce 
25g unsalted butter 
25g plain flour 
225ml whole milk, warmed

For the filling 
15g unsalted butter 
50g onion, finely chopped 
100g cooked white crab meat 
¾ tsp sea salt 
A large pinch of white pepper 

For the coating 
2 tbsps plain flour 
1 large egg 
50g panko
Vegetable oil, for deep frying 

For the tomato sauce
15g unsalted butter 
80g onion, finely chopped 
400g tin chopped tomatoes 
Salt and pepper, to taste 

Method

1. 
Melt the butter for the white sauce in a small pan over medium heat. Add the flour and stir continuously with a spatula until smooth. Gradually add the warm milk, whisking well after each addition to avoid lumps. Continue stirring until the sauce thickens and you can see the bottom of the pan when you stir. 

2.
In another pan, melt the butter for the filling then add the chopped onion. Season with salt and pepper and cook until the onion turns translucent. Add the cooked onion and crab meat to the white sauce and mix well to combine. 

3.
Transfer the mixture to a flat tray, spread it evenly and allow it to cool. Once cooled, cover with cling film and place in the freezer for 30 minutes until firm. 

4. 
Prepare two plates – one with flour and a beaten egg whisked until combined and smooth, and one with panko. Divide the chilled mixture into 6 portions and shape each into a small cylinder (the mixture will be soft, so don’t worry about perfect shapes). Gently coat each piece in the batter, then roll in panko. Reshape them and place on a tray lined with baking parchment. Cool them in the freezer for another 30 minutes to firm up before frying. 

5.
While the korokke are chilling, melt the butter for the tomato sauce in a small pot over medium heat. Add the onion, season lightly with salt and pepper, and cook until translucent. Add the chopped tomatoes and simmer for 20 minutes until thickened. Adjust seasoning to taste. 

6.
Heat the oil in a deep pot to 180C. Carefully slide in a few korokke and fry until golden brown. Lift out gently with a slotted spoon and place on a wire rack to drain excess oil. Repeat with the remaining korokke. 

7.
Serve hot with the tomato sauce.

Set amid the cobblestone streets of Unesco World Heritage site Angra do Heroísmo is the new Torel Terra Brava hotel (writes Carlota Rebelo). It’s easy to see why Torel Boutiques chose Terceira for its first opening outside mainland Portugal: just a stone’s throw from the Atlantic and overlooking the Monte Brasil volcano, it combines luxury and comfort with the beauty of the Azores landscape.

The hotel was dreamed up by Porto-based Nano Design, which worked with local artisans to create the 44 guest rooms and suites. The same design language, which nods to the island’s flora, fauna and elements, extends to the property’s spa, gym and pools, while the bistro serves regional specialities. “The hotel is connected t