Retinoid 101
So you want glass skin, and the internet consistently tells you one thing: Try a retinoid. One of the most well-studied ingredients in skincare, it can be useful for acne, fine lines, texture, and dark spots—but not every formula functions in the same way. Cosmetic chemist Joyce de Lemos (who is also co-founder and chief of product at Dieux) explains that retinoids are a family of vitamin A derivatives. These span from retinyl palmitate to retinol to retinaldehyde to retinoic acid (which you may know as tretinoin).
The difference between these is the number of chemical steps each needs to convert into the active form. Fewer steps mean faster results, but also a higher chance of irritation. Gentler options like retinyl palmitate take longer to work, but can be easier on the skin. As de Lemos puts it, “when selecting a retinoid product, there are tradeoffs one needs to consider based on their personal skin sensitivity and tolerability.” Still, most people are good candidates for a retinoid according to both Dr. Jacqueline Watchmaker, MD, and Dr. Aamna Adel, a consultant dermatologist and founder of rhute, with a few caveats. Pregnancy and breastfeeding disqualify you, and anyone with sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea should introduce one carefully, or hold off entirely during an active flare-up.
Starting slow is basically every expert’s advice. Dr. Adel recommends beginning with two nights a week, applying a pea-sized amount to clean, dry skin, then following with moisturizer and daily sunscreen (a non-negotiable), since retinoids increase sun sensitivity! Dr. Watchmaker notes that tolerability varies by formulation; some products are designed to be used nightly from the start, while something like prescription tretinoin typically calls for a slower build-up to nightly use. Both derms agree that visible peeling or redness isn't a requirement for a retinoid to be working—or even necessarily a good thing. As Dr. Watchmaker puts it, “you don't need redness or peeling to see results.” De Lemos echoes the same idea from the formulation side, saying “less pain could actually mean more gain.”
If irritation does show up, pushing through it isn’t the way to go. Dr. Adel recommends scaling back frequency rather than quitting altogether, and trying buffering by applying moisturizer before and after the retinoid to soften its effect. You can also pause other actives while skin recalibrates. Ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and squalane can all help support the skin barrier alongside a retinoid, while stacking it with strong exfoliating acids or high-strength vitamin C at the same time can make it harder to tolerate if you have sensitive skin. That being said, de Lemos notes that retinoids can be synergistic with other skincare products. “When paired with a firming moisturizer like our lipid-rich moisturizer, we see that the appearance of more plump and firm skin is amplified,” she explains. “We’re also seeing that when paired with a gentle exfoliator, skin cell turnover is amplified, revealing the look of renewed and dewy skin. It’s really amazing!”
At the end of the day, consistency wins out over intensity when you’re incorporating a retinoid. As Dr. Watchmaker sums it up, “the best results come from finding a product your skin tolerates and sticking with it long term.”
