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The National Retail Federation says more than 157 million Americans will go shopping on Saturday, so we thought this was a good opportunity to turn the newsletter over to senior reporter Amanda Mull, who’s all about the retail beat. Plus: College football’s new playoff format starts tonight, and we’ve got stories about Oregon football’s biggest booster and how an agent sees the NIL system for compensating athletes. If this email was forwarded to you, click here to sign up.

As the holiday shopping season comes to an end, I’d like to reintroduce myself. I’m Amanda Mull, a senior reporter at Bloomberg Businessweek and the author of our Buying Power column, which you can find every month in print and even more frequently online. We introduced Buying Power this year to cover what I euphemize as “consumer culture.” In practice, that means I interrogate all of the ways business and society shape each other through the everyday interactions people have with the economy. That provides my work with a wide remit, but as you might guess, it includes many stories about retail and consumer products. In the past six months, I’ve written about everything from the underappreciated trend-driving power of nurses and teachers to why America’s chain pharmacies have broken their own business model by locking up so much of their inventory behind clear plastic. Here’s a sample of Buying Power:

Illustration: Saratta Chuengsatiansup for Bloomberg Businessweek

How Bogg Bags, the Crocs of Totes, Won Over America’s Moms

For a certain type of American woman—busy suburban moms, teachers and health-care workers, in particular—a Bogg tote is suddenly the hottest thing going, catapulting the company from about $3.6 million in sales in 2019 to a projected $100 million this year, according to Bogg. That growth has come almost entirely from word of mouth, a trend propelled by people rarely credited as trendsetters.

What Everyone Gets Wrong About Luxury Handbags

Luxury goods, whether they’re handbags or supercars or fine wine, don’t straightforwardly adhere to the pricing rules that govern most consumer products. When the thrill of buying something expensive is fundamental to the pitch to customers, the price itself becomes part of the product.

Photographer: Steven John Miner for Bloomberg Businessweek

Putting Olive Oil in a Squeeze Bottle Earned This Startup a Cult Following

Graza’s highly recognizable, easily maneuverable squeeze bottles, which allow novice cooks to mimic the way the pros use cooking oil in restaurant kitchens, have proved to be a gateway to a type of buyer the zillion other olive oils never worked all that hard to woo.

Retailers Locked Up Their Products—and Broke Shopping in America

The practice has since metastasized to so many kinds of products in so many more stores—big-box discounters, beauty retailers, chain pharmacies—that it’s become routine to discover entire aisles transformed into untouchable product galleries armored in plexiglass. The whole thing has a whiff of pawnshop, which might actually be unfair to pawnshops. They, at least, have someone ready and waiting to take things out of lockup.

In Brief

Oregon Football in Its ‘Uncle Phil’ Era

Illustration: Maxime Mouysset for Bloomberg Businessweek

About a half-hour before the 4:30 p.m. kickoff, Phil Knight carefully steps out of the passenger side of a golf cart that’s dropped him off at Autzen Stadium. An elevator takes him from the concourse to his suite, where he gets ready to see the University of Oregon Ducks take on their archrivals, the University of Washington Huskies, in a late-November finale to the regular season. Oregon President John Karl Scholz, who often pops into Knight’s suite for matchups, says: “You don’t talk to him when the game is going. He’s really, really focused on what is happening on the playing field.”

Outside Autzen, a tailgate rages. In the inner lots, big donors and trustees grill scallops. In the outer lots, rowdy fans shotgun beers, smoke joints and mix drinks in red cups. Regardless of how fancy their parties are, everyone is a beneficiary of Knight’s. The 86-year-old Nike Inc. co-founder is the school’s wealthiest alum and greatest benefactor. Until 2013, in fact, fans had to ascend a steep hill to get to the stadium—but then Knight spent $5 million to regrade berms and replace ramps to make entering and exiting smoother. (Knight’s suite is from a previous face-lift, a $90 million project he helped fund that added about 12,000 seats and a set of luxury boxes in 2002.) Logan Johnston, a 36-year-old Oregon fan who’s gone to games since he was a kid, says it’s “easy to get in and out. People can tailgate right till [kickoff] and know that they’re not going to be waiting in long lines.”

It’s hard to walk around the campus in Eugene without passing a building Knight and his wife, Penny, have helped fund. In total, Knight, who’s worth roughly $35 billion, according to the Bloomberg Billionaires Index, has given about $2 billion to the University of Oregon since the 1980s. And in the past few years, Knight has made his most audacious move yet: writing checks to help secure the first national championship for the Ducks football team.

Kim Bhasin, Randall Williams and Janet Lorin write about how Knight’s cash has helped give the school a shot at a title—and reshaped the sport: Phil Knight Is Using His Nike Fortune to Make Oregon a Football Powerhouse

The ‘Wild, Wild West’ of College Sports Deals

Photographer: Mark Wang for Bloomberg Businessweek

Sports agent Henry Organ answered a call in September from a mother looking to protect her son. Rated among the top 20 high school football recruits in California, he had committed months earlier to play for the University of Oklahoma. A team official had agreed that he'd be paid $300,000 his freshman year, his mother said, as long as he stopped visiting other schools.

By that fall, nothing was in writing, and the high schooler’s mother was getting nervous. “I just want to make sure my baby’s good,” she told Organ. In October she hired him to represent her son, and he began trying to lock down the deal.

Days before the Dec. 4 national signing day for college recruits, with the invitations already printed for a celebration at the player’s high school, Oklahoma told him it wouldn’t have a spot available until 2026. So forget about the money.

Welcome to the brutally Darwinian new world of college football where, to adapt a phrase from Jerry Maguire, plenty of schools will talk about the money; they just may not show it.

In the third story in the series Turf Wars, by Peter Robison, a sports agent gives a rare tour of how the NIL world shortchanges student-athletes: ‘There Are No Rules’: Inside College Football’s New Pay to Play

Also, sign up for Bloomberg’s Business of Sports newsletter for the context you need on the collision of power, money and sports, from the latest deals to the newest stakeholders.

Raising Capital and Conflicts

$1.5 billion
That’s how much Jared Kushner’s Affinity Partners raised from the Qatar Investment Authority and Abu Dhabi-based asset manager Lunate. Kushner said the firm won’t raise capital for the next four years to avoid conflicts during his father-in-law’s presidency.

Preventing Elder Fraud

“They are brilliant. They moved her trust money into a joint checking account, then that joint checking account of my grandmother’s money went to Thailand.”
Janine Williamson
Niece of Larry Cook, a Virginia man for whom an elder care fraud law was named
As elder care fraud explodes, state lawmakers want banks to do more to block con artists, but industry lobbyists keep thwarting rules with “more teeth.”

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